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Everything posted by nikongod
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The Knuckledragger 3rd Memorial Slow Forum Post
nikongod replied to Knuckledragger's topic in Off Topic
Do not, I repeat do not watch this video. You have been warned. -
I made a new base for the stove/pot using a utensil organizer from Ikea. The MSR Titan Kettle nests comfortably inside of it, and it will fit any of my Alcohol stoves. Even the big Svea military-surplus stove I have. I hope it will also work nicely with a small wood fire inside. Ikea stove base by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr Ikea stove base by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr The very heavy looking steel tent stakes are indeed very heavy, and will be replaced with very light titanium stakes sometime.
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I dont know if it will be any help, but the odd dial just below the 12'oclock position (from 40 to 0) appears to be a winding indicator. http://elginwatches.org/scans/sales_catalogs/1917_Oskamp-Nolting/m_pg_E3.html Edited: I found this too. http://www.bogoff.com/pocket/6727.html
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If you are worried about falling, start off small. Maybe try to just push the bike along the trail until you get the hang of it.
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Red Bull Stove by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr The stove Red Bull Stove by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr With the pot-stand Red Bull Stove by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr With the pot The Stove weighs 0.2oz (6g) without the stand. I'm not sure how much the stand weighs... probably a lot.
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The BCL is unusual because the output buffer is NOT nested in the global feedback loop. After that, it is closer to a PPA buffer than an M3. http://cdn.head-fi.org/8/87/87579c0c_lovelycubecircuit01.jpg PPA buffer is nicer, and if one were so motivated they *could* convert the PPA pretty easily. Leave out R4, jumper R3, and set gain with R5&R6. The O2 is just off-the-shelf op amps. Not really much for the designer to worry about with class AB. The JRC4556 is actually pretty nice (as far as op amps goes) for driving headphones directly. Its not the amp that people dont like, its that his fanboys came around and said "this is right, and things that dont even begin to operate under the same principles are wrong." There is certainly a place for the O2, but there needs to be a fight so that people can still design things and learn for themselves.
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I think the O2 took a lot of the B22's spotlight. Very few people seemed to build the B22 for speakers, which left it as an amp with measurements too good to have any soul (like a tube amp) but not as good as the o2... If you are interested in DIY, comfy wiring mains stuff, and building in general check out the CCKiii if you are thinking about a BCL clone. Very different, but at the same time quite under appreciated.
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2 is also the only even prime number and accordingly much cooler than 3. 2 will still never be as cool as 12 though. 3 is a compromise for stability's sake.
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Maybe. Is gain of 5 too much with the amp you have now? Gain is gain. Odds are good the answer is yes, even if you dont think so. Very few dynamic headphones need anything more than gain of 2 with a standard 1-2v source, and that is being very generous to the camp of people who think you actually need voltage gain at all (you don't). Since not all amps are stable at gain of 2, lets compromise and go for 3. Yes, 3. Three is a good number. It is prime. And round. And it looks like an "E" backwards. I like the number 3. In addition to being a good number, it is also the largest number that voltage gain for conventional dynamic headphone amps should be.
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I found some coarse wire mesh (about 1/2" squares, 22ga? wire) while looking for bricks and formed a simple pot-support out of it. I think it is still a little too tall, but that is easy enough to fix. I was too busy adjusting the little stand/base I built to take any. Plus it was dark. I will take some tonight. I got it to boil 2cups of water in 17.5min, using 1/2oz of alcohol. The stand is still a little too tall, and I need a proper wind-screen. I think with those changes it could speed up, and save a bit of fuel. Although the little wire mesh stand is probably lighter - http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=27176 This thread ^ probably spells the end of my wire-mesh pot stand design.
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I completed "designing" and "built" the alcohol stove with the Red bull can. I did not make a base for it, which is probably (absolutely) important if I actually want to boil water with it... Maybe I have some bricks sitting around I could use. I am debating actually drinking a beer from an aluminum can to obtain a sturdier can for different designs.
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This thread makes me want to build an alcohol stove. Or a bunch, as the case may be. Some people at work drink RedBull, so I should have an adequate supply of smallish cans soon.
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The stoves themselves are very light, the fuel can be bought at just about any hardware store, alcohol is a renewable resource which keeps the hippies happy, they have no (essential*) moving parts, and there is VERY little residue/smell. They are also easy to build with a soda can**, which fuels a lot of "look at what I built" posts & videos. The downsides are that the stoves just aren't as hot as pressurized fuel stoves, alcohol burns with a "clear" flame in daylight which is a bit of a safety concern, and the energy density of alcohol is lower than fossil fuels. I'm on the fence. For shorter trips in warmer weather alcohol makes sense. Although alcohol will almost always light, I get tired of waiting for it to heat water in the cold. If you need more than a few days-worth of fuel, or are cooking for more than 2 people what you save in the stove gets offset by the worse energy density of alcohols compared to isobutane or fossil fuel. * Some commercial alcohol stoves have a little damper-paddle-thingy to control the flame. If it gets lost the stove still works. **Soda can stoves are prone to getting squashed if you pack them wrong, so be careful there.
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If its any help, I am more a fan of MSR stoves - the ability to cook with a standard pot (without buying an adapter thingy) is pretty sweet. I like isobutane stoves when possible - they are simple to use, pretty much zero-maintenance, and usually a touch (or more) lighter than liquid fuel. The downsides are that liquid fuel is more readily available, and works better in the cold. If you plan to fly with the stove things get kind of iffy. Liquid fuel is easier to find when you land, but TSA loves to "confiscate" liquid fuel stoves. I like tents for starting out because of simpler set up. But tarps are SOOOOOO much lighter and better ventilated. Do not skip the sleeping-pad when you start looking at sleeping stuff. This is very important for warmth in addition to comfort.
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This has never stopped you from making awesome things before
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It is balanced, which doubles the output impedance - so about 450ohms at the end of the day. Kind of a lot The only thing I am sure of is that 0ohms is wrong
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I may be weird, but I do both. Parametric EQ per the instructions in the "how to Equalize your headphones, a tutorial" thread on head-fi, and a stoopid-high-output impedance amp. It may have something to do with my amp having 6 double triodes but people always say they like it at head-fi meets. I think its both things.
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Hello Head-case. I would like to build my own website to put on my Resume and show off my fotos and skeematics better than Flickr, and a stack of loose papers on the edge of my desk. I'm not really sure where to start. What I'm looking for: I want the website to be pretty simple No horizontal scrolling, simple/easy to read fonts with high contrasts, basically paper on the internet. A few pages for photography (street, sports) A page for DIY stuff MAYBE a blog I have a domain name in mind, that is not owned yet, so that is good. I know I need to buy it and 1and1.com looks like a good place to do this, but I'm not really sure where to go from there. 1and1 could also be terrible. I am biased towards filling out templates to get the website running, but am fearless (stupid) enough to code from scratch if necessary. HELP!!!!1
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I just saw the Smith "Overtake" road helmet... no vent channels inside the helmet. Getting POC Octal with MIPS. Because head-case.
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I just ordered a Caran D'ache 849 pen. I will tell you all all about it when it comes. The pen I bought 3 weeks ago is working out just fine. Because Head-Case. Edited: The Fisher refill I have now does take about an inch of writing to get "up to speed" and writing at full darkness if it has not been used for more than about 20min, but it requires very little downforce. Once it is writing properly it just keeeeeps on going. Still no skipping & quite smooth considering its utilitarian origins.
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Happy Birthday Steve!
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The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.
nikongod replied to Knuckledragger's topic in Miscellaneous
One of my photo buddies passed away last year on October 23, and I miss him greatly. I really liked how he could look at just about any photo, accurately guess what the photographer was going for (not always easy for me...) and offer something constructive to improve it or just say its awesome. Check out his Flickr Stream here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bobjagendorf/ Anyways, I was out shooting this weekend and I thought he would have liked this.... Masts by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr Edited: Does anyone know of a GoPro mount that goes DIRECTLY from the gopro waterproof case to an Arca-swiss style plate? I found a few that use the quick-release GoPro foot, but fuck that. -
That's cute. I too have found that it is always good to mock someone after asking for help. Although I have not actually heard these headphones, here is what I would assume they sound like, using only the ten-hundred most commonly used words in the English language. These head music boxes are not like other head music boxes. They have 2 song parts for each ear instead of 1 song part for each ear like most other large head music boxes. This was done because 2 is more than 1, without thinking about if you really need 2 song parts. The truth is that you don't. Pretty much all of the other guys build their head music boxes with one song-part for each ear - even the ones everyone says are best. The use of 2 song-parts for each ear may cause some interesting problems. Since one of the song-parts is more far than the other the sound from each may arrive in the ear at different time. This fuck up in the time of each song part causes a not good sound.
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Hello and welcome to this little corner of the internet. What can you contribute to this forum in exchange for the information you seek? Don't even tell us. Show us. Post a few drink/food pix/reviews in the appropriate threads. Maybe show us a knife or 2 or 3 that you made. Did you design a circuit you would like to share? Can you maybe help someone else out with their circuit? Perhaps you are very good at casework and would just like to show that off. Perhaps you can do something for the community that we have not even thought that we needed until you showed us! Do that, that would be truly cool.
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Happy Birthday Jim!