dsavitsk

It is less the length, and more the function, though I suppose function is a function of the length. In an interconnect, silver has a slightly lower impedance than copper. But neither putting a (tiny) resistor in line with the silver to make it like the copper, nor doubling up the copper to make it like silver, seems to have a measurable or DBT perceivable effect on sound. In a transformer, the silver wire's better conductivity increases the flux which could possibly make the transformer work better. I have neither heard nor measured a silver wired transformer, so I can't say whether the difference is audible or worthwhile. And based on the price, I can't say I am in a hurry to do so. But you can certainly do the calculations for an electric motor wound with silver wire over copper to see the increase in efficiency.

I just wanted to clarify. While there is much science behind transformer design, there is of course plenty of nonsense too. The best manufacturers do a pretty good job of steering clear of too much nonsense.

In this particular case, I am using amorphous cobalt input transformers, mu metal gain transformers, and amorphous steel outputs.

I know the audio world is full of nonsense, but this is not one of those places. Above is a basic comparison of various cores. This is a comparison of the same Cinemag transformers, one with hi nickel core, the other with pinstriped nickel and M6 steel. What you should notice is that for both, at low signal levels, the nickel has considerably lower distortion. However, as the signal level increases and the core reaches saturation, the steel becomes better. This is why nickel generally makes less sense in a single ended transformer where the DC leads to early saturation -- basically, by the time the core is large enough to accommodate the DC, it is so big that its permeability is reduced to the level of steel. But in an application with little to no DC, the better core can be utilized. Much more is available in Chapter 11 of The Handbook for Sound Engineers, Third Edition by Bill Whitlock. Available from http://www.jensen-transformers.com/application-notes/

Not sure the spirit of that question. Different core material has different permeability and easily measurable and audible differences.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/lifecycle

Indeed. May you rest in pea ..., er, I hope you feel better.

I think I wish I had never tried it as there is no going back now. Amazing stuff. Piercingly clear and liquid.

Happy Birthday, Todd!

I use one of these However, I opened up the bottom and filled it with a tar like substance to give it heft and to make it more solid. I also removed the feet and coated the whole bottom in a piece of adhesive rubber so that it had support everywhere rather than just edge nubs. I can't stand moving my hand off the keyboard to find the mouse, or using touch pads. Sorry, Al.

I recently did some comparisons of PS caps on the output of a regulator in a differential tube amp. Just by ear, I thought the DC links (not sure which brand I used) worked about as well as the ASC motor runs, some Mundorf M-Tube caps, and a bunch of other expensive film caps. They were better than electrolytics, but decidedly worse than the Multicap RTX which were by far the best option I tried.

I don't think "great at its price point" means sounds the same, or sounds like a flagship. It means they have certain goals and a certain budget, and within those parameters, they make the best thing they can that will appeal to the targeted market. That is to say, they are not purposefully hamstringing designs.

I assume they want every headphone to be great at its price point.

I was at this show. I can't believe how long ago this was:

http://www.pickettfurniture.com/col_fur_orkan.html

Happy Birthday!

I'd imagine solid wood would be just fine. Cinder blocks work well, too.

http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649131124-devore_gibbon_8/

I like those -- heard them in NYC a few years ago. But the ones I like are likely not the ones I can afford. Though this one is tempting ... Clearly too small, but the SHL5 has me intrigued, seems to tick all the boxes, and has the distinct advantage of looking like a speaker should to me. It might just be the one. No.

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

I am in the market for a set of speakers. I have very quickly become overwhelmed and could use suggestions. The room these will go in is ~14' x 31' with 9 foot ceilings. It is open to a room that is 14' x 20', so effectively the room is 14' x 51'. For various reasons, they probably need to be placed along the short wall, That wall has windows over most of it, and a large radiator under the window. This means that the speakers cannot be closer than about 18" to the wall. Additionally, the corners are not accessible, so corner horns won't work. I plan on driving these with a push-pull 300B tube amp (~30W Class A). These amps can drive about anything (they are not SETs) but flatter impedance is certainly better. However, I also have 100W sand amps to use if need be. I don't generally listen particularly loudly, so hitting 90db is all I'll really need most of the time. Music wise, I grew up listening to punk rock, and now listen mostly to music created by other people who grew up listening to the same, or similar. So Will Oldham, Cat Power, Sonic Youth, VUs. Classical and Jazz are not a concern apart from occasional piano music. I am also not concerned with reproducing reality in my living room. I am a post modernist, so ruler flat I don't care about. Clarity, warmth, and presence I do. Imaging I can take or leave. I am unlikely to try to sit in the sweet spot and instead tend to be milling around while listening to speakers. If I wanted to sit still, I'd put on phones. Used is much preferred to new. Budget is whatever it needs to be, but if I can stick around $3500 I'd be happy. I'll go higher for the right speaker. My preference is to buy something and keep it for 20 years. I almost bought some used B&W matrix 802s and consider them an OK option. The pair happened to have a driver issue which was a deal breaker. I seem to like old B&Ws, but dislike anything since the switch to Nautilus. I also historically like Dynaudio, though they get a little spendy in the size I'll need. Other name that seems to keep popping up is ATC but I am unsure where to give them a listen, or if I can get a pair in my budget. Appearance matters. The B&Ws are horribly ugly, but were so much under my budget I was willing to live with it. Generally, the more understated the better. These are ugly. These are better. Finally, grill cloth will get destroyed by Thursten, so less cloth, and drivers that are far from the ground is a good thing.

I think the fact that Perez was compromised seals the argument that Gordon should have been sent. A healthy Perez makes it a hard call, but his power loss and inability to run made his expected batting average under the circumstances well under .285. After not sending Gordon, the Royals should have pinch hit for Perez.