dsavitsk

How about a bow saw? https://www.fine-tools.com/gramercy-tools-bow-saw.html

I find card scrapers more effective for removing glue residue that sandpaper. Or chisels.

Router is overkill for such small hinges. But a router plane is a good option. As is a mortise plane.

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1 3/4HP will not resaw 13" of hardwood, at least not well, regardless of stated capacity. If you think you want to resaw that much, you need a bigger motor. That said, it's unlikely you need to resaw that much - unless you are also buying a 13" jointer and a 13" planer. I have a 1 3/4HP Laguna. I am able to resaw ~6" of oak using the Laguna resaw blade. Even that is slow and I wouldn't try to push it any harder. I wish I'd bought the 2 1/2 HP 220V version, but it wasn't a quick option at the time and I needed it in a hurry. But I do like it - it is way better than my old Grizzly. The general advice I'd give is to pick the max width you want to mill, and build you shop around that. That is typically dictated by the size of your jointer as those are typically the smallest tool. When I bought my bandsaw, I had a 6" jointer, so it was plenty. And really, with very few exceptions, there is not a lot of reason to work with wood wider than 6-8" as it has a tendency to warp too much. For wider, you are better off gluing smaller pieces together, or veneering plywood. The Jet is lacking (at least) two features of the Laguna which to me are worth the price difference*. The first is the Laguna has ceramic blade guides which are much nicer. The second is that the Laguna has a pedal braking system. That might not seem like a big deal, until you stand there waiting for the saw to slowly slow down after each use. Laguna stuff goes on sale as often as Jet, so it will be discounted soon enough. There is also a new Hammer in your price range: https://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US/en-US/Sawing/Machines/Bandsaw-Hammer-N2-35.html * as a general rule, tools are the one place where economic laws seem to actually apply. If one tool costs more than another, there is almost always a good reason for it.

RIP Ida.

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Also, this: https://decider.com/2020/12/06/great-british-baking-show-derry-girls-2020-episode/

Probably most relavent to anyone else who lived in Wisconsin in the 2000's: https://www.packers.com/news/former-packers-gm-ted-thompson-dies-at-68

Doubt it matters much. I think I have a dewalt in mine. Also, shouldn't a shelf for a hand plane utilize said plane during the construction?

and me was a Contax T1/Agfa Ultra 50 user before. Oddly, I never really shot Fuji film. But still interesting.

I found a pair for under $70. And if you can tell the difference between those and something over $1K, the James Randi Educational Foundation will pay you more than enough to buy those expensive cables.

The reason is that as you push the saw from front to back, the blade is lower than the wood*. It is spinning up, and that means that it is cutting by pushing into the stock which makes the wood act as a backer to prevent tearout. But as you get the the end of the cut, the blade is pushing out of the back. With nothing to hold the stock, it tears instead of cuts, which is why you need a fence behind, but not below. * this requires proper technique of pulling the blade all the way toward you, cutting down, then pushing in rather than just chopping.

It will take 20 minutes to do by hand. You probably don't. Add a thin piece of ply on the back of the saw as a sacrificial fence - that will work fine to prevent tear out. The direction the blade moves means that there shouldn't be any issue on the underside of the piece you are cutting.

Unbelievable. A grand for what should be a warranty replacement?

I love those things, btw. I think they are about the best table saw accessory I have found. They are helpful for sheet goods, but where they really shine is in long rips of hardwood. Cutting trim pieces, for instance. as someone whose thumb is still whole because of a sawstop, I would pretty much refuse to touch a non-sawstop table saw.

Can still damage the laser itself, and most likely voids any warranty.

Ftfy 80 is good for cross cutting. Some of that stuff is PVC which creates hydrochloric acid vapor when lasered.

Was the first album I bought with my own money as a kid (quickly followed by Weird Al's In 3D).

The lift is great. Al has one, too. It's made by JessEm but with a few small changes for Incra. I have the rockler cast iron table (the one that works as a table saw wing - not sure if they have another in a more standard size). I think it is fine but not ideal. I bought it so I could use magnetic hold downs and such, but it turns out that the lift plates are aluminum, so the area where a magnet will be helpful is too far from the router. Cast iron is also useful for vibration dampening, but routers are pretty vibration free, so it is not that big of an issue. Where the cast iron was useful was using it as a table saw wing, but I have subsequently removed it from the saw as I found the setup didn't work for me. On the downside, the bottom of a cast iron top is not smooth which makes attaching clamps a pain. It also makes attaching a fence difficult. Additionally, rockler lift plates are their own size which means that your lift will have to fit it (incra obviously makes one that does) and you will be stuck with rockler if you ever want to change the table, get a new lift, etc. That may or may not influence what fence you can get. My top came with the "benchdog" fence which is functional but not my favorite. I've looked at the other brands of fences, but it's not clear that they will fit any better.

This probably renders this thread obsolete, but here's the Atlantic's list of best podcasts https://www.theatlantic.com/culture/archive/2020/12/50-best-podcasts-2020/617486/

Happy, birthday-ric.