dsavitsk

If you are not spending 95% of your time in the shop getting your tools set up and calibrated, they are not set up and calibrated.

You can't use the router fence when cutting miters as if your miters are perfect, there is nothing to catch the outfeed. And if there is anything to catch on the outfeed, then you have a flat. Two ways to do this - 1. use double sided tape to stick a reference block to the back of the piece you are cutting. That will give you a flat to catch on the outfeed, and something to hold on to. Technique shown here, though with a slightly different bit 2. Use a shooting board with a 45 degree tilt. Shown here a about 8 minutes in

Um.

It's funny - the power tool guys like power tools over hand tools due to the repeatability and precision while the hand tool guys prefer them over power tools for the repeatability and precision. It's just a different way of working. I am definitely still much better with power tools, but like Craig I enjoy the process of hand tools. It's difficult and often frustrating, but also rewarding.

How about a bow saw? https://www.fine-tools.com/gramercy-tools-bow-saw.html

I find card scrapers more effective for removing glue residue that sandpaper. Or chisels.

Router is overkill for such small hinges. But a router plane is a good option. As is a mortise plane.

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1 3/4HP will not resaw 13" of hardwood, at least not well, regardless of stated capacity. If you think you want to resaw that much, you need a bigger motor. That said, it's unlikely you need to resaw that much - unless you are also buying a 13" jointer and a 13" planer. I have a 1 3/4HP Laguna. I am able to resaw ~6" of oak using the Laguna resaw blade. Even that is slow and I wouldn't try to push it any harder. I wish I'd bought the 2 1/2 HP 220V version, but it wasn't a quick option at the time and I needed it in a hurry. But I do like it - it is way better than my old Grizzly. The general advice I'd give is to pick the max width you want to mill, and build you shop around that. That is typically dictated by the size of your jointer as those are typically the smallest tool. When I bought my bandsaw, I had a 6" jointer, so it was plenty. And really, with very few exceptions, there is not a lot of reason to work with wood wider than 6-8" as it has a tendency to warp too much. For wider, you are better off gluing smaller pieces together, or veneering plywood. The Jet is lacking (at least) two features of the Laguna which to me are worth the price difference*. The first is the Laguna has ceramic blade guides which are much nicer. The second is that the Laguna has a pedal braking system. That might not seem like a big deal, until you stand there waiting for the saw to slowly slow down after each use. Laguna stuff goes on sale as often as Jet, so it will be discounted soon enough. There is also a new Hammer in your price range: https://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US/en-US/Sawing/Machines/Bandsaw-Hammer-N2-35.html * as a general rule, tools are the one place where economic laws seem to actually apply. If one tool costs more than another, there is almost always a good reason for it.

RIP Ida.

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Also, this: https://decider.com/2020/12/06/great-british-baking-show-derry-girls-2020-episode/

Probably most relavent to anyone else who lived in Wisconsin in the 2000's: https://www.packers.com/news/former-packers-gm-ted-thompson-dies-at-68

Doubt it matters much. I think I have a dewalt in mine. Also, shouldn't a shelf for a hand plane utilize said plane during the construction?

and me was a Contax T1/Agfa Ultra 50 user before. Oddly, I never really shot Fuji film. But still interesting.

I found a pair for under $70. And if you can tell the difference between those and something over $1K, the James Randi Educational Foundation will pay you more than enough to buy those expensive cables.

The reason is that as you push the saw from front to back, the blade is lower than the wood*. It is spinning up, and that means that it is cutting by pushing into the stock which makes the wood act as a backer to prevent tearout. But as you get the the end of the cut, the blade is pushing out of the back. With nothing to hold the stock, it tears instead of cuts, which is why you need a fence behind, but not below. * this requires proper technique of pulling the blade all the way toward you, cutting down, then pushing in rather than just chopping.

It will take 20 minutes to do by hand. You probably don't. Add a thin piece of ply on the back of the saw as a sacrificial fence - that will work fine to prevent tear out. The direction the blade moves means that there shouldn't be any issue on the underside of the piece you are cutting.

Unbelievable. A grand for what should be a warranty replacement?

I love those things, btw. I think they are about the best table saw accessory I have found. They are helpful for sheet goods, but where they really shine is in long rips of hardwood. Cutting trim pieces, for instance. as someone whose thumb is still whole because of a sawstop, I would pretty much refuse to touch a non-sawstop table saw.

Can still damage the laser itself, and most likely voids any warranty.

Ftfy 80 is good for cross cutting. Some of that stuff is PVC which creates hydrochloric acid vapor when lasered.