Leaderboard

used my immersion vacuum sealer to make quick pickled green beans. Holy crap these are tasty.

Another KGGG alive. I separated the GR power supply and the GG amp into two chassis, making it easy to reuse the GR power supply for the next project. The four holes with the rubber blocker on top of the amp are for balance and offset adjustment. I made a side mount board for the 10M90S instead of using the L bracket. The side mount board is attached if someone is interested in it. It is a 450V version, The tail resistor near the offset pot is 200ohms to track the offset voltages down to 0. To make the servo work, offset voltages must be higher than 15v. The power supply comes with a soft starter of about 50s. I don`t want to talk more about the sound since many comments were mentioned. Pretty decent with my Omega and 009. Thank Kevin Gilmore for bringing the project to the table. SideMountV3.zip

Cooking for kids. Cottage pie and gluten free chicken and dumplings

Crime Of The Century [2014 - HD Remaster] by Supertramp (1974) https://album.link/i/1440646658 Example: I always think of Supertramp from 79 into the 80s, not 1974. Even this does not feel like 74 to me. Just a high quality album from the tramp.

Sous vide lamb with roasted potatoes and garlic sautéed green beans

I did a board like this years ago for 31DQ10 shottkys (or anything in an axial package) that I've used on most of the GRLV PSUs I've built, etc. I attached the gerbers for this board if you want to have some made for yourself. I would prbably do these in 2oz copper instead of 1oz. Here is a screenshot from JLCPCB's gerber viewer on their site: Bridge.zip

the problems with the stax srm006t is that like the srm007 it has too many design compromises that massively effect the sound. 1. its high voltages are not well regulated 2. it uses resistors as a anode load for the valves which reduces current drive and efficiency rather than using a constant current source. (the srm007t is exactly the same design but parallels up the values to get a bit more drive but its still not fixing the problem and costs twice as much) 3. it uses values which don't have much current drive or are that high voltage. Most of the good designs use far more powerful values such as EL34 running at conservative currents (for what they can do) rather than running tubes design for pre amps really hard. The result of this poor bass, poor dynamics, mushy and in general, a sound that, as you turn the volume up the bass gets more soggy but not that much louder. The drive situation gets far worse if you use a difficult to drive headphone like the sr007 (I tried this and you cant get even close to the performance the 007s can provide with a well designed energizer. Replacing a silicon diode bridge with Schottky diodes might give you a bit less switching noise and slightly lower voltage loss but its not addressing the major design issues. If you really want to upgrade the energizer get the anode resistors replaced with a constant current source. This massively increases the drive and addresses some of the poor design of the energizer. If you are in to diy electronics and want to build your own energizer there are a variety of energizers so much better than the srm006 or srm007. one of the simple and fairly cheap options, with better valves and fully regulated high voltage power supplies is the alpha centauri from http://www.high-amp.de. Its relatively simple to build and walks over and kicks in the head the srm006t. I am speaking from experience here. I started with a 006 and built the centauri. The published design still uses resistors for the anode load but the website does offer pre built constant current sources for it. Unfortunately the schematics and the pcb files are not available for the constant current sources. Next come the energizers with constant current anode sources, fully regulated high voltages and beefy output valves: The blue hawai, it will cost more to build than the alpha centauri, is bigger and more complex but sounds even better At the apex of stax energizers is the diy T2. The original one uses transistors which are no longer available and so getting non fake transistors for it is not easy or cheap. The design has been updated to use more modern transistors. I built the mostly modern version which has a mix of old and current production transistors. It big, complex and fairly expensive to build but the performance is fantastic. I replaced by blue hawaii with it and never went back. There is also a mini T2 which is a simplified version using modern transistors and smd (surface mount components). Its not as good as the full T2 but I think its better than the blue hawaii. if you want something that is fairly simple and will warm up a room on cold nights then there is the megatron. I never got around to finishing my build but its one of the more simple designs. There are many more diy designs out there and in this forum. But the bottom line is if you want a realy good energizer for your Stax headphones, Stax does not sell one and most of the other commercial designs are almost equally as bad (and in some cases worse). P.S. the offset or balance DC voltages being a few volts out or drifting around by a few volts is not going to effect the sound or reliability. Remember the headphones are designed to take 100s of volts, 5V or 10V of DC offset or DC balance is nothing to them.

Spaghetti and meat sauce. No action photos unfortunately.

Blueberry Pancakes

The rabid disdain for Audio-GD products over there has me questioning the veracity of any of their opinions. Measurements are useful for verifying manufacturer claims, but this is ultimately a hobby about listening to music.

Yeah, ASR pimps topping hard. I think Amir has a relationship with them. I won't bother reading... I wonder if he measured it correctly given past estat amp history?